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Topic: shortend centre board |
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Nik Hoddie 682 |
Posted: 25-Feb-08 19:05 |
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Does anyone know if there is any reason why a centreboard for the iso would not be able to have 12" to 18" cut off the bottom and re shaped. As we sail on an estuary, some high tides are too low for us to sail and after a big nose dive on the gybe mark the other day, we discovered we were only waist deep at that point. We need to get a shorter board sorted out so we don't lose time out on the water, just watching everyone else have all the fun. |
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Pete Lindley |
Posted: 25-Feb-08 19:48 |
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I have cut the bottom off of an ISO daggerboard myself (for the same reason you highlight) and experience tells me to cut the top off in future as this is easier as you don't need to do much profiling afterwards! The daggerboard has several steel rods that run through down the length so a disc cutter would be a good tool to do the job.
Please ensure though that a full length board would be required at ISO events (which I am sure you will be coming to!  ).
Pete
[Edited by Pete Lindley on 25-Feb-08 19:49] |
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graham_737 |
Posted: 26-Feb-08 17:26 |
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Oh pete, that does tickle me that you cut the bottom off your board and not the top. Only a northerner. |
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Pete Lindley |
Posted: 26-Feb-08 19:29 |
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Where have you been Graham? |
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graham_737 |
Posted: 27-Feb-08 07:44 |
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I'm afraid my attentions have been turned to sailing other boats recently. I have been sailing my OK since christmas and unfortunately the championships clash with the iso champs.
I have not seen any sign of the silver feather signed up to datchet either? Are you iso sailing for the whole of 2008 pete? I see that Savage is on the prowl...... |
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Bob Ladell |
Posted: 28-Feb-08 23:39 |
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Taking the top off the board makes sense - to a point.
The whole board begins to taper about 10" from the top down to the tip - so if you take too much off it just flaps about in the dagger board slot.
Try lifting it a lot a sailing hard with the board up before you cut it - and then bear in mind that you'll probably need some extra packing on the hull side of the board to make it work.
Cutting the tip off and re-profiling does make a bit of sense - but bear in mind that the 2 dozen or so steel rods are only about 1 to 2mm below the surface so re-profiling to a thin tip and keeping the water away from the steel is a bit of a challenge.
W&W have plenty of spare dagger boards - but bear in mind the cost of wrecking one !!!!!!!! Try carefully before you cut one up.
Bob |
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Nik Hoddie 682 |
Posted: 29-Feb-08 09:48 |
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Thanks for the replies.
We thought we might end up going down the route of re-shaping the bottom of the board, for the reason you have highlighted, Bob. I have just replaced the friction strip (fury bit at the top of the slot) using some velcro, but this seems to have made the board a bit more loose than the previous one (is there a specific material for this job?).
Which leads me to think that somehow having to use different thickness fury bits, when using the different length boards (if using a board that was shortened at the top) might be more difficult to achieve than the initial hassle of reshaping the bottom of a board?????.
Nik. |
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Pete Lindley |
Posted: 29-Feb-08 10:18 |
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I use a sheet of pro-grip (well LDC's equivalent stuff). I cut it into strips and layer them up on the daggerboard case using contact adhesive. Then get a knife and 'shave' it into a profile at eiteher end similar to:
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It is layered thin at the ends and thick at the middle to fill the relevant space around the daggerboard.
So far it has lasted about 6 years and is just starting to get a bit tatty. I may renew it for this years nationals. Much better than the brush stuff.
Pete
[Edited by Pete Lindley on 29-Feb-08 14:56] |
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Nik Hoddie 682 |
Posted: 29-Feb-08 14:33 |
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Hi pete
What is pro grip and where do you get it from?
Nik |
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Pete Lindley |
Posted: 29-Feb-08 15:00 |
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I used the LDC - Pro Grip Sheet (don't think it is pro-grip, just their version)
http://shop.ldcracingsailboats.co.uk/index.asp?selection=category&InB
ox=Non%20-%20Slip&countstart=0
Pro Grip is basically a rubber matting in handy rolls that you stick on your boat. Helps provide grip. I feel it is only necessary on the wings and gunwhales where the crew trapezes from and anywhere else looks messy after a bit of use as it peels off.
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Bob Ladell |
Posted: 02-Mar-08 20:14 |
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Dagger board slot gasket
The "real thing" is £25 a set - plus p&p
The solution that works a treat is the soft side of Velcro and double sided foam tape - the thick version.
A lot less hassle that Evo Stik and has so far lasted us best part of 2 seasons. Cost - well ok Cousin Trestec sponsored the Hook 'n Loop and the stationary cupboard had the tape. Total cost to buy probably around £8 and about 10 minutes to fit.
Bob |
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Nik719 |
Posted: 06-Mar-08 15:22 |
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25 Years ago we had the same problems with windsurf boards. At that times we constructed short wooden daggerboards which worked very well even when tacking. We used it on Beaufort 5+. That boards had an angle of 30 degrees to the back and were 30cm long. For the ISO 60cm might be ok. Keep capsizing in mind. If you have more questions iso719 at gmx.de
Nik |
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