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Topic: Spinnaker halyard arrangements |
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Jan Newman |
Posted: 10-Oct-05 09:44 |
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Have just purchased a Spice as part of a midlife crisis, sailed a Buzz for many years and always wondered if we could keep a Spice upright for any length of time, now is the time to tell.
Have not yet sailed the boat but have checked over the rig and am not happy with the spinnaker drop, seems to have a lot of friction and clearly the sail has been damaged by this rather than just thrashed as my Buzz ones were.
At present pole launcher runs from pulley at the bow through the stainless loop at the back of pole and then through the pole to the foot of the spinnaker. On the drop the friction in this brings the pole to the stb side where it can get caught in all the rubbish before it is withdrawn into the boat.Have thought it mght be better to have separate rope for foot of Spinnaker through the pole to an anchorage point on the port side to make sure the pole comes back cleanly .
Any info on the approved methods of rigging the kite gratefully received. |
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Chris |
Posted: 10-Oct-05 10:15 |
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Certainly sounds wrong, will draw you a sketch and forward to you. The pulley at the bow should be a double. The single line system works well and is worth keeping. Spice poles are a bit of a devil and usually need a good deal of silicon spray, as does the mouth as the kite is fairly large.
Chris. |
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apawtionofshawts |
Posted: 10-Oct-05 14:25 |
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hi,
on my spice the halyard runs up to the pulley and back down but doesnt go through the pole again. silicon works wonders and a good handful of strength! another thing i found is to leave a good couple of feet of the pole out to make the first couple of grabs that much easier. hope that helps a bit.
David
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Jan Newman |
Posted: 10-Oct-05 19:54 |
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Thanks to everyone for their replies so far, it illustrate how difficult it is to describe Spice knitting in mere words. Having found the Assn website and read the manual(Without the vital pictures). I think I can simplify my question.
How do you rig the tack line ?
Does it come from the tack of the spinnaker throught the pole then continue to the bow pulley to act as launcher, as it does on mine at the moment.
or is the pole launcher line tied to the back of the pole and the tack line secured to something in the vicinity of the port jib fairlead |
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Chris |
Posted: 14-Oct-05 16:44 |
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First line is correct, tack through the pole, onto the block in the bow. You then only need pull up on the halyard, up goes the kite, out goes the pole........ sounds simple, now why doesn't it always work like that!
Chris. |
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Pete Lindley |
Posted: 17-Oct-05 09:42 |
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Taken from the ISO website, the system is the same as the Spice.
http://www.isoracing.org.uk/iso_guides/isotweaks/pole_modification.ht
m
Pete
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Chris |
Posted: 20-Oct-05 13:39 |
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Fully agree with Pete, system identical. This is the only approved class system for the Spice.
Chris. |
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Jan Newman |
Posted: 27-Oct-05 21:57 |
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Thanks to all particularly Pete for pointing out the Iso site and diagram . This was how it was set up all the time.
Having now had a sail in the boat, yes the kite system works but still feel there is a lot of friction in the system, most of this comes from the knackered kite going into a knackered shute, is the shute the same size as the buzz one ? obviously the hole at the front the kite has to squeeze through is.Looks like some time with a PTFE spray is required.
Jan |
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Bob Ladell |
Posted: 27-Oct-05 23:10 |
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Have a trawl back in the ISO section - there are a couple of descriptions for a treatment I've found very effective in treating old kites.
It revolves around using NikWax from e.g. Millets at about £7 / can and rubbing it into a ***dry*** kite on the outside where the halyard runs over the outside of the kite - and the inside where it runs into the chute. Make sure you dry it after treatment for at least 3 days before use, otherwise it will wash off instantly.
NikWax not only waterproofs but lubricates as well and saves the crew a whole heap of effort and consequently strain on the old kite material. Want a more detailed description ? Drop me an e-mail. Pro-lube / McLube around the pole and chute entrance also helps a lot.
The other aspect of the Spice / Buzz set up is single sheet pole and kite launch - you have a quite a big kite for single halyard launch. The ISO usually has separate halyards, much reducing the friction / crew grunt needed. Don't know about the Spice Class rules on this one - but if you are struggling then it would be worth asking the question. I'm sure ChrisH can advise.
Cheers
Bob |
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Jan Newman |
Posted: 28-Oct-05 11:43 |
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Thanks Bob for that hint, somewhat cheaper than fabsil, guess have to wait until wife is out of the way, tread the kit in the bath for a while then a day or two in the airing cupboard. Does the Nikwax smell ? if so I'm bound to be caught out trying to dry that indoors.
My concerns for the kite launching stem from al my crews (Three daughters) being in the 7-8 stone region so if there is heaving on the downhaul it comes to me to do it. We will persevere for the moment and concentrate on trying to learn to tame the beast, seems a lot more power than the old Buzz, and am I right in thinking we should not be considering sitting down at all once the breeze has reached reasonable levels.
Cheers
Jan |
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Pete Lindley |
Posted: 28-Oct-05 17:47 |
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Also ensure that the downhaul patches are seperated by about 10". Do this by either using a 10" bowline in the top patch, or a figure of eight 10" from the end patch. Put a bobble between the knot and the bottom patch (stops the knot going through the bottom patch).
One large bunch of spinnaker through the chute is difficult, but with the above tip, it allows one bunch of kite in, then another second bunch of kite through. This will help also. |
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Bob Ladell |
Posted: 29-Oct-05 21:55 |
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Strongly recommend keeping Nikwax away from the bath !!! That will get you in serious trouble with 'er indoors - cost you a seasons brownie points !!
It comes in a plastic spray bottle so best way is simply to lay the kite on a flatish clean surface spray and use a paint brush or kitchen cloth to rub into the surface before hanging up to dry. This time of year it's a job for the garage or maybe loft. NOT the living room !!!
Fabsil is OK for waterproofing but stinks like seomthing awful and doesn't have the lubricant of Nikwax. I've tried both and settled on Nikwax ( doesn't smell quite so much either). It will need 2 or 3 coats during the year to keep the slippery surface working - but sssooooo much cheaper than a new kite !
Take Pete's tip above - saves a load of strain on crew and kite. Another ISO tip is to run the halyard outside the mast - if it doesn't already do so. Pro-lube / McLube the blocks as well - but very carefully.....
Bob |
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apawtionofshawts |
Posted: 30-Oct-05 11:21 |
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to answer about sitting down. Im not sure how it would be taught, or what the experts think, but i wouldn't recommend it, much better to be on your feet ready to step out when the breeze picks up. can sometimes be tricky making sure the wire is hooked on, but if you can find a way for keeping it there while stood up, makes it quicker to get the weight out when needed. hope that helps.
David
[Edited by apawtionofshawts on 30-Oct-05 11:22] |
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