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Topic: Removing fittings |
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Mick Pullin |
Posted: 10-Jan-09 12:48 |
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I am now undertaking the winter re-fit and need to seal the deck fittings as we are getting quite a bit of water in the hull. I would like to know if anyone has had problems replacing the fittings, nuts dropping off inside the hull perhaps ? Also, I would like to put a hatch in the hull to help ventilate it when ashore. I did this with a RS600 and it helped keep the hull dry. Is there a recommended position to cut a hatch?
Has anyone fitted a pump system to the spinnaker, as on the RS700, or an effective way to take up the spare halyard so that it's out of the way of feet and other sheets?
Any suggestions welcome. Mick 645
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Neil Ashby |
Posted: 10-Jan-09 15:16 |
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Mick hi
There are a lot of tips and helpful guides on the website.
i replaced all the fittings on 1195 and resealed with Sikaflex and she never leaks now. Cut a hatch in the raised part or the transom where the rudder gudgeons go to help ventilation.
Take up sheets are a must in the iso, For the kite halyard we just have a length of elastic attached round the back of the transom and tied on to a foot strap and a 19mm block on the other end with the halyard going thru it. simple and effective.
Kite sheets you need to attach a length of elastic to the back of the pole feed it forwards on to another 18mm block attached to the same hole that the kite socks goes onto and then back to the cockpit area with a plastic ring on the end. The kite sheets then go thru the the plastic ring and get pulled forward when you drop the kite out of the way.
Come to a open meeting and i would be very happy to show you all the mods
Neil 1195 |
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Mick Pullin |
Posted: 10-Jan-09 18:25 |
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Neil, thanks for that. Regards the spinnaker halyard, we have a block on elastic as you describe but still seem to have a lot of excess in the boat or the recovery end too tight when hoisted. I suppose it's a case of getting the halyard the right length. Thats the challenging bit as we don't have much experience with kites.
We sail at Halifax, so opens will be limited, possibly if there is a Rutland meeting, that's not too far. Plan to do handicap events such as Filey and Ullswater which are both excellent venues. Cheers, Mick 645 |
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Nik719 |
Posted: 11-Jan-09 16:38 |
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Hi Mick,
your boat is quit old, so be careful when tightening the screws. Inside the hull there are wooden reinforcements for holding the screws. In the old boats they are rotted often. In these cases I drill a hole of 10mm and champfer the entry. After drying the wood I fill the hole with glass reinforced filler. At least I drill a new hole with the kernel diameter of the screw, i.e. 3-4mm, for not to force open the grp-filled hole.
For sealing I would recomment simple silicon. Sika might be better, but later on it is difficult to put it away and it is very expensive. For me silicon works as well.
Cheers Nik |
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Neil Ashby |
Posted: 11-Jan-09 17:27 |
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Nik
The only problem with silicone is that the salt eats away at it very fast and you will have to repeat the process all over again at the end of the tear. Sikaflex isnt expensive in big tubes only about 5 quid or 5 euros
Nik is right about the wood going rotten thou simple drill out and fill with some kind of resin or any sp west system will be fine.
Neil |
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Nik719 |
Posted: 11-Jan-09 17:50 |
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It is important to champher (for much contact) und to use glass reinforced resin whith a lot of glass. Otherwise you won't have much fun.
Nik |
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Mick Pullin |
Posted: 15-Jan-09 15:57 |
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Thanks for the advice guys, I suppose I had better get on with it. We have been getting quite a bit of water inside the hull so I can imagine the plywood blocks will be in pretty bad condition. Mick 645. |
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neilgbj |
Posted: 15-Jan-09 21:12 |
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I had a couple of fixings where the block was in poor condition, I epoxied a rawplug in place which took the screws really well and has now held for a couple of seasons...just been giving the boat the once over and still firm
Neil (603) |
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