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Topic: help....!!! pulled my mainsheet block out. |
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murphcbr6 |
Posted: 11-Apr-06 13:57 |
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hello - - Ive pulled my mainsheet block out of the hull - any ideas on how I should go about repairing it? |
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Stuart Buzz 1027 |
Posted: 11-Apr-06 18:30 |
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Hi there,
You have 2 options. You could possibly use bigger screws in the existing holes, although i'd recommend you check that the GRP in this area is solid first. The other option assuming that the base swivels is to drill 4 new holes between the existing ones and re fit the main sheet block assembly. The old holes should be filled first.
I would definately check the area is solid before commencing any work as if the correct diameter and length of screws were used i'm suprised they pulled out in the first place.
Stuart.
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Bob Ladell |
Posted: 12-Apr-06 22:53 |
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Definitely give it a close inspection to find out why it pulled out in the first place.
What's the boat number ?? I'm told the earliest boats had wooden blocks under the deck into which all the fittings get screwed. No problem so long as it stays dry - bow pointed as high skywards as you can whilst in the boat park. Might get a bit soft if it has been allowed to hold water for any length of time. Later boats all have nylon blocks.
I find Uni-Bond's "Fixes Metal for Good" a ****really**** good adhesive. If everything looks sound, then fill the holes with this stuff, shove it to the bottom of the holes with a long match stick or similar put a bit under the block and screw it down whilst still wet. Leave for a couple of hours ( maybe a day this weather ) and I doubt you will ever get it off. Did my rudder gudgeons this way 3 years ago and they haven't budged since.
We fixed a BOSS mast track back on with it 2 years ago and as far as I know it's never had a problem since either.
Bob |
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murphcbr6 |
Posted: 13-Apr-06 08:53 |
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I capsized the boat last season and I think that not only did I fall onto the cleated mainsheet, but I may have stood on the block as I fell in - thats why it pulled out.
the mainsheet block was secured with four screws
- two No10, 2 inch, self tappers for the front two holes
and two No10, 1 inch, self tappers for the back two holes.
apart from a bit of cosmetic damage to the edge of the fiber-glass plinth - the area looks sound. the sail number is 520 - so I think its a wooden block - obviously ther'll be some damage to the wood - where the original screw were wrenched out.
The boat has been in a barn all winter - so it should be nice and dry now.
I think I'm going to try and re-use the existing holds - I'm going to drill out the existing holds - turn the hull upside down, syringe some epoxy resin in - this should soak into the wood and cure leaving it quite hard - then drill new pilot holes and screw it back in with four new 2 inch, No12, single thread, wood screws.
[Edited by murphcbr6 on 13-Apr-06 14:34] |
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Rob_Heath |
Posted: 15-Apr-06 21:40 |
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I had to take my centre main jammer off last year, when the nut and bolt holding the swivel bearing together came undone ( spilling lots of small platic bearings into Grimwith reservoir !! ) there were definately four 2" screws holding the base to the hull, although I think 806 must have the nylon block bonded in to the hull. The Uni-Bond adhesive that Bob suggested is brilliant ! Good luck. |
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S Scott |
Posted: 17-Jun-06 09:03 |
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That uni bond adhesive is ace! I pulled out my kite pole cleat and the uphawl cleat was constantly coming loose too; this stuff certainly does the job and cheap and easy to use! |
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Will_Moore |
Posted: 08-Aug-06 17:19 |
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I've just pulled off my rudder as the lower screws came out of the transom. They gradually got looser and I kept doing them back up, then they finally came out and the top screws half pulled out too.
I guess I should use this Uni Bond "Fixes Metal For Good" stuff? I just assumed it would be better to use some epoxy wood glue type stuff, since the boat is mostly wood?? Do you use any other wood to fill the holes or just Uni-Bond? Do I need bigger screws than the old ones, so that they have a chance of gripping the old wood, or is the glue enough to hold the screws into the old holes?
Thanks for your help,
Will (ISO 842) |
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Bob Ladell |
Posted: 08-Aug-06 22:20 |
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Wouldn't go anywhere near wood glue for this job. Inside the transom post is either a block of wood or nylon.
Done exactly the same job on both my boats just using Uni Bond "Fixes Metal For Good" putting some both in the holes and smeared on the back of the gudgeons. If it comes off it will take the transom post with it. Bigger screws ?? Use your judgement depending on what you see.
Your alternative, which is probably the better solution but not as quick and easy, is to do the latest production mod of fix an inspection hatch to the transom post and use the stainless steel plate and new bolts mod, removing the wood / nylon block in the process.
Bob |
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Pete Lindley |
Posted: 09-Aug-06 08:40 |
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My block is still moulded into the rudder post on the inside. I'm on my second set of bolts though. |
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murphcbr6 |
Posted: 09-Aug-06 18:01 |
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Will - I used West's epoxy,
I thoroughly dried out the holes (used an old hairdryer) drilled out the existing holes to get a nice clean base to work on. I then syringed in some pure epoxy - to give the existing wood block a chance to soak it in.
(NB because dry wood is slightly porous it sucks in epoxy into the grain which makes it very hard and makes for a very strong bond)
I then mixed some microballoons into a second batch of epoxy until it was just thick enough to use with a syringe (you can get these from fishing shops for pennies) and gradually filled the holes in over an hour or so (the epoxy runs down the hole initially - but eventually forms a plug)
I waited until the epoxy had fully cured and I then drilled a new pilot hole to exactly the same size as the shank of a No12, 2 inch, stainless-steel self-tapper.
(the idea is that only the srew-thread cuts into the epoxy - there should be no chance of splitting. If you're pilot hole is any wider than the shank then the screw will be too loose and won't grip - any smaller and you run the risk of forcing apart and cracking the epoxy when you tighten the screw in)
I then re-screwed the block back in using four of the slightly larger than original, No 12 2 inch self tappers, having first put a squirt of sikaflex down all four holes to prevent any water ingress.
(if you need screws - have a look at toolnet.com - much cheaper than B&Q and you can get SS No 12's too)
I've been out in some quite gusty conditions since with no problems.
- As an afterthought, I was talking to the owner at Wet and Windy who is experimenting with "epoxy cones" as plugs for holes - the idea is that you overdrill the holes , drop a cone on a thread into the void - squirt in your epoxy mix and then pull the cone up into place. (get him to explain it - it sounded quite a good idea)
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[Edited by murphcbr6 on 09-Aug-06 18:03] |
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Will_Moore |
Posted: 19-Jul-07 11:50 |
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Hi,
So, I tried the "Fixes Metal for good" repair over the winter and it only lasted for 2 gentle sails this summer before pulling out again!
Now I'm going to make a hatch in the rudder post to get some bolts through. Seems to be the only way to be sure it's not going anywhere again!
Will. |
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Stu B |
Posted: 19-Jul-07 13:49 |
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Hatch then replacing the screws for bolts is the best permanent fix. If you've any broken screws then good luck!! It took me a while to remove a couple of broken screws from a Buzz, lots of patience and a very small set of mole grips through the hatch did the trick.
I always change the screws for bolts now, before the screws break!!
Stuart.
Buzz 763. |
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