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Topic: class changes 2004 what happened?? |
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tasarhans |
Posted: 02-Sep-05 20:03 |
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On the site :
http://www.isoracing.org.uk/about_and_press/yydinghyshow04.htm
Many improvesments cq changes were proposed....
are the accepted in the class??
The development of the class and boat are a bit unclear to me...
where can I find answers??
Hans
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Bob Ladell |
Posted: 04-Sep-05 19:46 |
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Hi Hans
The outcome of the Class developments promoted in the article you mention were voted upon by Class members last year. The result of that was then translated into the Rules 2004.
In summary, we legalised any rudder stock you like so long as it takes the standard blade - which can be modified to fit the new stock above the waterline. The wetted area must remain the same.
We also legalised blocks of like size from any manufacturer allowing purchase to be added or removed whilst keeping the same basic boat layout. Added to this we also allowed any rope diameter or type you want as well as tapered sheets. Trapeze lines can also be wire or rope or a combination of the two to your choice.
Think that about covers it. Basic pronciples being to keep the boat on the water at lowest cost possible whilst permitting choice of rope and block manufacturer. Sails and spars remain as per the original - with the addition of a legal carbon boom as of the Dinghy Show 2005.
It's back to that Rules page time
Bob
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tasarhans |
Posted: 07-Sep-05 19:54 |
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Hi Bob,
thanks for your reply...
It makes the choise of a suitable iso for me more easy. I don't have to bother about old fashioned rig or something
Am I correct that sails wear quite quick? (Maybe comparing tot a tasar that I am sailing now)
IS there a good second hand market for sails?? This forum is not very crowded (at the moment??
I saw here some boats for sale but most need a new jib or spi.. specially the spi costs quite some... 570 pounds new...
I would like to start withe an iso with reasonable sails to excercise and do the first races... after having mastered the boat...probably buying another jib...
Hans |
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Bob Ladell |
Posted: 07-Sep-05 22:51 |
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Sails - now this is where you get quite a lot of personal opinion - so be warned !!!
I've found my original main to actually be quite good - better than I thought it was even though the top two panels motor on the leach. Plenty good enough to start off with - so unless a main is REALLY knackered you'll be OK with it until you master the upright strategy to a reasonable degree. New mains seem just great.
Jibs. I've found the old mylar jibs to remain pretty good even though they look and sound awful. Mylar comes off and they look like they are full of holes. Some of that Viking tape I mentioned the other day and they pull very well. Plenty good enough to knocking about in club races / learning the boat.
The middle versions - Genesis I think they called them - I found stretched rather a lot and had next to no power after a year or so. Leach and foot motored. I've sailed two or three and they all seemed to be the same. Again - plenty good enough for learning / club racing.
You then move on to the newer Chinese jibs - both sub versions seem to pull very well indeed and last well. I've run one for 2 years and no complaints. The latest version seems even better on both power and life - but we'll have to see. Not heard the top guys complaining either.
Kites - don't seem to be as an exact a science as the main and jib. Repaired my 1st one many times and it still seems to work moderately well in some conditions even though it has no body to it. I've also had a brand new one that needed some re-work before it performed like a dream. They seem to be very expensive for all Classes so I guess that's the going rate. Again find the best you can and run with it for a while - but make darned sure you use LOTS of tape round the chute, space frame, jib tack otherwise you'll shred it in 2 secs flat - 5 if you have a slow crew ! Take a good look at the halyard - they get rough with use and put burn holes in the lower kite section. Change it pronto for 4mm spectra dyneema. MUCH cheaper than a new kite. Plus use some lube around the pole and chute. You might also want to run the halyard outside the mast - saves a lot of wear and tear on the kit - and crew.
Best tips - Ask someone to take you for a sail before you buy. Then get to an event and have people take a look at it with you.
Where do you live ? Can probably find someone to help. |
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Rob_Heath |
Posted: 09-Sep-05 19:33 |
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Hi Bob,
What benefit does running the geneker halyard outside the mast give ?
A good point about the 'rough' halyard though - we got burn marks and our halyard is rough, methinks we better change it pronto.
Regards
Rob ISO806 |
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Pete Lindley |
Posted: 09-Sep-05 21:39 |
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Well as the halyard goes into the mast it rubs and causes a little bit of friction. As it comes out of the mast at the other end, it causes a little bit of friction. This is minimal amounts though. The main issue is if the kite halyard and jib halyard are twisted with each other inside the mast - more friction.
As we are flyweights (not light weights), in the class, we on 1013 opted to taper the kite halyard as well as making it run external to the mast. We also renewed all the blocks in the kite system. All this helped Annie hoist and drop the kite quicker and easier.
The bigger crews won't notice a problem, but the fleet are starting to follow our lead - just as they usually follow our transom!! (he he he!)
Common sense modification we thought.
Pete
ISO 1013 'Team RWO' |
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tasarhans |
Posted: 11-Sep-05 11:56 |
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Well guys,
thanks for the advise...
some questions:
what about sailnumbers and age... aorund 5-600 seems nearly as old as the 900.. Am I correct?. The suggestion is not to bother too much about the age... (I come from the tasar class, where boat-age en speed are not correlated  ) Same for ISO?
The upright strategy is the same as for the tasar I guess? Som difference for the spi and trapeze I guess..
I just bought the breeze on dvd... really looks good... I guess Iso and 29er are a bit comparable...
Who do I recognize the second type of jibs... They seem to be prevented.. better an old, not totally worn jib than a second type same quality...
For all the tips about haliyard etc.. I will find out later when I bought a boat... Are there more ISO's sailing in Holland?? There is a skiff foudation organizing Skiff events during the year.. I guess with an iso good to sail along with them.. (L4000, RS, '9ers etc..)
When there is someone having reasonable sail for sale.. let me know.. I am planning to come over next month to pick a boat...
Hans Smorenburg |
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Colin Snook |
Posted: 11-Sep-05 21:22 |
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Pete,
I tried the external halyard this weekend as I've had a number of mysterious lockups on my spinnaker drops. It was a lot better - I think it may have been jamming in the jib wire like you say.
However, when the spinnaker is stashed, the halyard floats off and dangles off around the ends of the spreaders which was a little worrying... may snag somewhere?. Did you put a fairlead of some kind on the mast to stop the halyard blowing away? Also, it looks like it will rub more on the sock now it doesn't go into the mast since the block on the deck is out a little from the mast step and under the sock. Have you found this a problem?
Colin |
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Bob Ladell |
Posted: 12-Sep-05 17:11 |
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We tied a ring to the spreaders and a rope loop at the gooseneck to prevent the halyard flying away. No problems there or on the sock that I'm aware of.
We also have a halyard take up going forwards - mimicks the kite sheet take up on the other side. Some people like to run the halyard take up backwards - no right answer just personal choice.
Bob |
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Diederik Schuuring |
Posted: 12-Sep-05 19:28 |
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Hoi Hans,
Er is inderdaad nog een iso zeiler die deze site leest. Ik heb hem nu twee jaar en begin er een beetje op thuis te raken. Mocht je contact willen dan kun je me bellen 0553671596.
Groet, Diederik |
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Colin Snook |
Posted: 12-Sep-05 22:40 |
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Thanks Bob, Will try a ring near the spreaders. I tried the forward going halyard take up for a while but found it often snagged in the block at the end of the chute so i have reverted to the backwards take up for now. I am thinking of trying without any take up as the elastic pulling the downhaul tends to put a crease in the spinnaker.
Diederik, we only understand hands, knees and things like that 
Colin
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Diederik Schuuring |
Posted: 13-Sep-05 11:37 |
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Hi Colin,
That is good to hear you picked up some words, does that mean I should come over again to explain the rest of the stuff??
Cheers, Diederik |
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Pete Lindley |
Posted: 13-Sep-05 21:38 |
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Get a SMALL GUAGE metal ring with an internal diameter just bigger than kite halyard plus the fixing rope, and tie it to the mast around the spreader bracket. Ensure the ring is at the front of the mast (this ensures the halyard is as straight as possible and therefore doesn't go round any corners causing friction.
Tape the rope to the spreader bracket to ensure it doesn't come undone and or jam the mainsail etc.
There is no need to use a rope of excessive diameter to fix this ring. Something around the 2.5mm to 3mm range. People who use ropes for such tweaks that are too big for the job...... (Righting lines that are mainsheet diameter spring to mind!)
[Edited by Pete Lindley on 13-Sep-05 21:39] |
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Bob Ladell |
Posted: 13-Sep-05 22:07 |
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Hey Diederik - u bent zeer welkom om over wanneer te komen en gezet uw twee jaar aan de test ervaar..... Langstone ?? Inlands ??
............................ handen, knieën en tenen
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tasarhans |
Posted: 14-Sep-05 08:08 |
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Hi Guys,
Diederik just gave me a sign in (double) dutch that there are (other) ISO sailors in Holland. When I'll buy an ISO, at least there are 2 iso's on the dutch waters. Diederik offered me to give some hands on instructions, in return I'll come and watch his transom
When I am a bit familiar on the iso.. probably come over now and then to do some racing (Round of sheppy sounds fun... isn't it??) May be we can come and sail straight from holland to save some bucks for an extra beer.. or so The fare is quite costly to do it often.
But You'll hear from me as soon as I joined in the class...
Hans
[Edited by tasarhans on 14-Sep-05 08:09] |
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Colin Snook |
Posted: 14-Sep-05 20:09 |
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Pete,
Agree about appropriate rope size - my righting lines are little more than whipping twine... well 1mm i think. I had to tie on small metal deckloops for it to run through because it cheesewired the elastic first time I used it... but now it works great.
Yes Diederik, you need to come and teach us some more body parts... During Sunday's race, b*ll*cks! would have come in handy for a start!
Seriously, next years Nationals will be worth coming to at HISC.
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