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Topic: Kite pole rigging |
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Paul_Wilcox |
Posted: 27-Apr-07 18:56 |
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Hi All,
Hope someone can help me rigging the kite pole - I can't work out how the tack line should be rigged. I figure it should go through the pole but I don't know then what to do with it! I downloaded the rigging guide but the page about rigging the pole doesn't download on my computer.
Thanks in advance
Paul |
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Stu B |
Posted: 27-Apr-07 21:46 |
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I sail a Buzz but the rigging is the same i think. The tack line on the buzz runs along the inside of the pole and then terminates either somewhere secure at the mast foot, or on the clip screwed to the deck holding the spinnaker halyard block. It is worth having an additional knot between the inner end of the pole and the end of the rope to control how far in the pole can go. The knot at the outer end of the pole controls how far out the pole can go.
I hope that helps, for the pole control line i would need to know whether the pole is self launching or done on a seperate system. If you would like photo's of a buzz system email me at bailey.stu@btinternet.com .
Stuart.
Buzz 763. |
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Pete Lindley |
Posted: 27-Apr-07 22:07 |
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For a one rope system.
http://www.isoracing.org.uk/iso_guides/isotweaks/pole_modification.ht
m
For the 2 rope system:
Halyard:-
When the halyard comes down the mast, it then passes through the block on the starboard side of the mast and to the back (single system goes forward). The halyard then passes throught the bullseye, through the cleat, through the block to the front of the mainsheet jammer on the center line, then back to the block at the base of the spin chute, and back up the chute to the downhaul patches on the kite.
Pole:-
As per the scribbled diagram for the single pole launch system - EXCEPT that... when the pole rope comes out of the pole and back up to the front block, then back down the boat, it continues all the way back down the left hand side of the mast, through the bullseye, through the cleat, to the pulley block on the center line in front of the mainsheet jammer.
The double back to back block on the single system is not required for the double rope system.
Single system = more friction & loading for the crew, but one less rope to worry about.
No speed difference really, most stick with the two rope system.
Now for some photo's, I haven't sorted these out at all, but there is bound to be a photo here to help you out!
www.asafeplace.co.uk/isoracingtemp
Hope that helps.
Pete Lindley
ISO 1013 'Team RWO'
[Edited by Pete Lindley on 04-May-07 09:10]
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Paul_Wilcox |
Posted: 03-May-07 21:12 |
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Thanks for the advice received. I had a look at the boat and I'm not sure now that the current rigging is correct.
I've currently got a rope tied to a ring on the inboard end of the pole, up to a block in the bow then through the cleat and to the block next to the mainsheet, as mentioned above. As well as this, there is a rope through the pole currently not attached at either end, and with no knots in it as were on the diagram. I assumed that one rope was to launch the pole and the tack line was separate, but hope someone can help out with this.
The boat had been sitting in a dinghy park for many years before I got it so trying to rig it pretty much from scratch.....
Thanks again for your help.
Paul
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Pete Lindley |
Posted: 04-May-07 09:00 |
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That is fine by the sounds of it Paul.
As I interpret your words,
- The rope tied to the pole, back up to the front block then back through thte cleat and block will launch the pole no probs.
- There should be another rope that passes through the pole. This rope ties onto the tack of the kite. The other end of the rope ties onto the bullseye (see bullseye next to inboard end of pole in this pic with no rope attached) www.asafeplace.co.uk/isoracingtemp/100_0664.jpg
To set the rope correctly, with the pole pulled out to it's full normal sailing extension, the kite should be as per this pic:
www.asafeplace.co.uk/isoracingtemp/100_0675.jpg
Adjust the inboard end of the same rope on the aformentioned bullseye.
When the kite is pulled into the chute, there should be none protruding out the front:
www.asafeplace.co.uk/isoracingtemp/100_0666.jpg
If there is a lot sticking out, then this most probably is because you have the downhaul bowline (or figure 8 - depending on the length of your downhaul) too long. The distance should be about this:
www.asafeplace.co.uk/isoracingtemp/100_0679.jpg
The halyard bowline, needs to be about this length:
www.asafeplace.co.uk/isoracingtemp/100_0674.jpg
For crewing techniques regarding the kite, see the crewing tips doc as well as the helming tips doc:
http://www.isoracing.org.uk/iso_guides/handling/index.htm
Also, where are you? Get your details on the database:
http://www.isoracing.org.uk/cgi-bin/teemz/teemz.cgi?board=_master&act
ion=opentopic&topic=56&forum=News_and_General_Information
Cheers
Pete Lindley
ISO 1013 'Team RWO'
[Edited by Pete Lindley on 04-May-07 09:11]
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mmoncia |
Posted: 06-May-08 09:58 |
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Hi, what's the need in having a Knot INSIDE the pole ?
I'm replacing the line that runs into the pole and then to the gennaker and I was wondering if i can do it without removing the p[lastic ends of the pole.
thanks
marco
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Pete Lindley |
Posted: 06-May-08 10:48 |
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One knot (when positioned correctly) stops the rope accidentally being pulled into the pole when there is no kite attached.
The other knot (nearest the front of the pole) allegedly helps bring the pole in when pulling the kite down. If set incorrectly though (distance from this knot to the kite is too short) then the kite won't come all the way in. Set this knot with the kite in the chute and the pole in the boat.
Pete |
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mmoncia |
Posted: 06-May-08 11:27 |
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Thanks.
Since it should be working without the knot INSIDE the pole I think I'll avoid opening the pole...
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